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Casting lead nose weight

Here is how I cast my lead nose weight. Just one of the various methods available. It is possible to make molds out of different materials e.g. plaster of Paris etc. but I have found that traditional sand casting to be the quickest and simplest.

What you will need :
​
  • Plasticine
  • Talc
  • Builders sand
  • Melting pot (I use a metal measuring pot designed for cooking)
  • Lead

Measure how much lead you will need. Now add a small bit extra, sufficient to make up for any losses during the melting process.
Powder the inside of you models nose with the talc, (or you can line it with cling film). This will prevent the plasticine from sticking to the inside of the nose.

Push the plasticine firmly into the nose. Now gently pull it out, and you should be left with an impression of the inside of the model. Make sure the volume of the plasticine is greater the the volume of lead required.

Make sure the sand has is slightly moist so it can hold itself together. (Put it in a suitable bucket).

Now talc the plasticine "plug" again acting as a parting agent. Gently, as not to deform the plasticine, push the plug into the sand and build up the sand around it. Now gently remove the plug.

Melt the lead, keeping the room well ventilated and cover the melting pot. (Lead fumes are poisonous!) Also use safety heat proof gloves, if you burn your hands there no point in finishing off the model!!

Skim off the layer of oxide formed on the surface of the lead melt, and immediately pour the lead into the sand. Wait for it to cool and then fit it into the model. Check its size and weight and epoxy in place.

This method is really quick and easy. In the past I have recast the lead several times within an hour, as I was tight for room and wanted to get it just right.​

Contact us

  • About
  • Site
  • Club
  • Membership
  • Weather
    • XCWeather
    • Wellesbourne Live
  • Gallery
    • Club Members
    • Club Gliders
    • Golden Oldies
  • How To
    • Automate D-Connectors
    • Batteries >
      • Charging
      • What is the "Memory Effect"
      • How Are Batteries Rated? (What Are Volts and Amps?)
      • How Can I Maximize Battery Performance?
    • Build a fly-powered plane
    • Build a Pibros foam model
    • Build straight & true
    • Cast lead nose weight
    • Crimp servo cable connectors
    • Cut ailerons (or flaps) into moulded wing
    • Design and calculate almost anything
    • Debond CA
    • Digital Camera/RX Interface
    • Digital Photography by Radio Control
    • General Tips for building
    • How does a wing work
    • Install wing servos
    • Lipo balance connectors
    • Make NiMH battery packs
    • Make servo linkages
    • Make silicon hinges
    • Make silicon hinges (alternative)
    • Make silicon hinges (alternative)
    • Make wing bags
    • Run your aerial in your model
    • Spektrum Useful Tips
    • Set-Up a Racing Glider
    • What do thermals look like
  • FAQ
    • How do I join the SMSA and how much does it cost?
    • Do I need insurance to fly?
    • What radio equipment would you recommend for a beginner?
    • When am I likely to meet other SMSA members flying?
    • Can the SMSA help get beginners flying?
    • What models and advice would you recommend for a beginner?
  • AGM
    • AGM Location
    • 2020 December (not held)
    • 2019 December
    • 2019 March
    • 2018 (not held)
    • 2017 (not held)
    • 2016 Minutes
    • 2015 Minutes (not held)
    • 2014 Minutes
    • 2013 Minutes
    • 2012 Minutes
    • 2011 Minutes
    • 2010 Minutes
    • 2009 Minutes
    • 2008 Minutes
    • 2007 Minutes
  • Links
    • RC Glider Blogs >
      • Bwlch Blog - Kevin Newton'
      • Pierre Rondel Glider Reviews >
        • Archived Glider Reviews
        • Current Glider Reviews
      • South Wales Soaring - Steve Houghton'
    • RC Glider Classifieds >
      • BARCS For Sale
      • BMFA Classified Glider Ads
      • eSoaring For Sale
    • RC Glider Clubs >
      • Ivinghoe Soaring Association
      • Leek & Moorland Model Glider Association
      • Long Mynd Soaring Association
      • Malvern Soaring Association
      • South Wales Soaring Association
      • Thames Valley Silent Flyers
    • RC Glider Manufacturers >
      • Aeromod
      • Aero-o-tec Shinto Crossfire
      • Baudis Models
      • Breta Tanga Furio NYX
      • Flightech Optimus
      • JiTom
      • Lesky Pace
      • NAN Models
      • NCFM Models
      • Pace Lesky Composites
      • Pike Samba
      • RCRCM Models
      • RTGModel Rotmilan
      • Sanda Arsen Mach
      • Stinger Dingo
      • Stratair
      • Vampire
      • Vladimir's Models
      • Willow F3F
    • RC Glider Shops >
      • Ace Model
      • Ace Wing Wing Bags
      • Hyperflight
      • Phoenix MP
      • Revoc Bags
      • Soaring USA
      • South Coast Sailplanes
      • T9 Hobby Sport
    • RC Manufacturers >
      • Airtronics Sanwa
      • Frsky
      • Futaba site
      • Hitec Multiplex
      • Hyperion
      • JR
      • KST servos
      • MKS servos
      • Multiplex
      • Overlander Batteries
      • Savox servos
      • Spektrum
    • RC Shops >
      • Align-Trex
      • Al's Hobbies
      • BRC Hobbies
      • Brentford Radio Control
      • Easy Composites
      • Inwood Models
      • Kings Lynn Models
      • Modelfixings.co.uk
      • Model Shop Leeds
      • Nexus Models
      • Plug Molds
      • Servo Shop
      • Slough RC Models
      • Sussex Model Centre
      • West System/Wessex
      • Vapex Tech Batteries
      • Zepsus magnetic switches
    • RC Websites >
      • BARCS British Association of Radio Control Soarers
      • BMFA British Model Flying Association
      • eSoaring.net
      • RC Groups
      • RCMF (glider section)
      • Scale Soaring
      • Slopehunter